GENERAL

Your Catskill Craftsmen unit is made from domestic hardwoods which are harvested locally in the heart of the Catskill Mountains of New York.

All of the species we use are self-sustaining and non-endangered.

Sawn boards are air dried, then kiln dried for weeks, reducing the moisture content down to 6-8%. When dry, boards enter the factory through our dimension plant where they are defected, cut to length, planed, run through straightline saws to assure good glue seams, sorted again with defects thrown out, and glued into panels on our clamps with an industrial glue that dries harder than the wood. Each stick is handled at least four times before it is glued, and any defective pieces are sent through for recycling. The glue we use is non-toxic.

Some sticks, such as those required for table tops and legs are rough sanded before gluing into panels to insure perfectly flat gluing faces.

Panels then move to the finishing plant where they are shaped, slotted, bored, or otherwise machined before becoming a top, brace, leg or other component. Parts are standardized as to length, width and thickness with strict tolerances. Male and female mortises, hole sizes and depths are all standardized with numerous quality control checks during each operation.

Finished pieces are then sent to the packing department where they are dipped in oil, dried, and packed for shipment. Each table is packed on an assembly line with a place in the carton for each piece.

Your table has been manufactured with great care to insure quality and durability at a reasonable cost. We sincerely hope that the information given here will be helpful to you in understanding and caring for your table.

We have taken the most frequently asked questions posed by the purchasers of our tables and have attempted to answer them as simply and completely as possible. Not all “assembly” questions will pertain to your unit.

We have a small import selection of carts designed by us and manufactured overseas. We also have a few accent pieces that are imported. These are plainly marked on the cartons. All import pieces have Catskill’s guarantee.

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Q – What is butcher block construction?

A – Butcher block construction originally was a combination of jointery and gluing (lamination) to form an end grain surface. However, today the term is loosely used by the Housewares trade to denote face glued lumber or edge grain surface such as thicker table tops and is seldom used in reference to the original type of construction.

Q – What are the dark streaks, spots or blotches found on some parts?

A – These are mineral streaks, caused by the highly mineralized soil in the area where the hardwood trees grow. Some are caused by man induced foreign objects sometime in the life of the tree. These marks are not defects, but rather add to the individuality of the piece.

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ASSEMBLY

Q – My door spacer isn’t as long as the door, why?

A – We have to lave clearance at the top for the magnetic latch. The spacer should be flush with the bottom of the door.

Q – The hardware list calls for 1” long 3/16” dia. Steel shelf pins, yet I received extra 1-1/2” pins and no 1” pins.

A – Sometimes we substitute 1-1/2” pins since they work equally well as the 1”. Above all else, use the 1-1/2” pins in the doors. Although the 1-1/2” pins can substitute for 1” pins, the 1” pins can never substitute for 1-1/2”.

Q – Why do some wooden parts have extra holes that are “not used”?

A – This is for manufacturing convenience only. Many braces for many different models are exactly the same length, width and thickness. However, boring locations for hardware may vary from model to model. All of the “not used” holes are hidden upon final assembly.

Q- The plastic wheels on my drawer glide do not run smoothly or seem to be hitting something. What’s wrong?

A – Check to make sure you did not use the wrong screw. If a larger than called for screw was used in conjunction with the drawer glides, it may cause improper gliding or obstructed gliding. On factory assembled drawers, check to make sure none of the screws attaching the glides loosened during shipping.

Q – How do I acquire a replacement part or a missing part?

A – First, DO NOT RETURN UNIT TO PLACE OF PURCHASE. We guarantee prompt service on any of our customer’s problems. Before writing or calling, look at your instruction sheet and write down the following information on your Replacement Parts Request form:
1. Cart/Island Model Number (easily found on the instruction sheet)
2. Part number and a description of the part. Call (607) 652-7321 during our normal office hours (8am – 4pm Mon. – Fri.) email us at: info@catskillcraftsmen.com, or write to us at Customer Service, Catskill Craftsmen, Inc., 15 West End Ave, Stamford, NY 12167-1296. Be sure to include your telephone number in any correspondence so we can clarify any requests. We do not charge you for the replacement part, nor for shipping it to you. Defect parts need not be returned to us unless specifically requested.

Q – I received a brace or leg or table top that has a flaw on one side. Is this a defect that needs to be returned or replaced?

A – Furniture that comes from the factory in a fully assembled state has a multitude of sins hidden beneath finishes, under molding, on the underside of table tops, and so on. Since Ready-To-Assemble furniture requires the customer to handle each piece, a higher level of quality is required. Occasionally pieces leave our factory with a flaw which will be hidden upon final assembly. Please inspect each piece before assembly, and carefully determine if the flaw will be hidden when the unit assembly is completed. If you find a flaw that will be visible when assembled, please do not hesitate to contact our Customer Service Department.

Q – What do I do if I receive a part that is slightly warped?

A – Occasionally a cutting board, cart top, or door may be slightly warped when you receive the unit. This is due to the change in climate that the parts may face between the factory (in the Catskill mountains of Upstate New York) and the delivered destination. Usually the part will flatten itself out in a couple of days in its new environment. To guarantee a return to flatness, lay the piece flat and place a weight on it. The piece will eventually flatten out – sometimes overnight. Cutting boards must be dried thoroughly, immediately after cleaning, and re-oiled. Clean with a light soapy water solution. Do not soak or place in dishwasher! To alleviate warping in a cutting board, place a damp cloth over the board and place equally dispersed weight on it. The board will flatten. Re-oil immediately.

Q – What is the proper way to insert plugs to keep them straight?

A – Try pushing the plug in with your thumb. Make sure the grain is straight, then give a slight tap with a hammer. Strike the plug on center so as not to break the edges.

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TIPS ON BASTION FASTENING SYSTEM:

1. Don’t cross thread set screws. They should tread and turn easily. If the set screw does not turn easily, the post alignment may be improper.
2. Make sure that the solid shaft of the post is screwed in to the top of it’s threads, then BACK OUT to align with set screw. This may take a little trial and error.
3. When in proper position, the hole in the post, when viewed through the barrel nut, should not be centered, but rather off center slightly towards the leg. This is so that when the set screw is tightened, the post will be pulled toward center, thus creating a tight assembly and securing the leg in place. (Bastions are also used for drawers. The same principles apply.)
4. If the leg is not tightly secured after the set screw has been tightened, the post may need to be threaded deeper into the leg. When you have found success with the first post, inspect its depth into the leg, and replicate the actions on subsequent bastion assemblies. This will aid in expediting assembly.

Q – The smooth shaft caster refuses to snap into place in the caster socket.

A – Place caster in socket and tap it into place with a rubber mallet or boot heel. The casters are weight tested for 300lbs. so breaking one should not be an issue. When the caster is in place, it will not be able to be pulled out with out some force.

Q – The doors of my unit don’t close properly at the top, hit on the front bottom brace or squeak. What is the problem?

A – Check to make sure the magnetic latch isn’t sticking out too far, also check to make sure the flat headed screws were used on the magnet plate on the door rather than round headed screws. Make sure the door spacer isn’t hitting the block of wood used to position the magnetic latch. Washers need to be used over the bottom door pins to prevent the door from hitting the bottom brace. A drop of vegetable oil on the door pivot pins should reduce any squeaking.

Q – Some of the pins are loose when put into position in brace ends or door ends. Is this a problem?

A – No. Pins in braces are there to keep the brace from turning. Door pins are used for pivoting.

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MODIFICATIONS

Q – Can I put a permanent protective coating on my butcher block table over the oiled finish?

A – Polyurethane/lacquer finishes tend to bring the oil out of the wood, causing the polyurethane or lacquer to flake or make the finish oily to the touch (as if it never really dries). Danish Oil seems to be a better solution, as it is more compatible with the factory applied oil finish and hardens to a nice finish itself. Use Danish Oil as directed by the manufacturer. Danish Oil can usually be found in unfinished furniture stores or hardware stores. If you plan to use the top of the cart or island for food preparation, it is recommended to continue to use Fair Oil or mineral oil on the surface rather than Danish Oil.

Q – Can I stain or paint my butcher block table to match my kitchen cabinets or other furnishings?

A – Caution should be taken when staining or painting any piece of furniture. Our kitchen carts and islands leave our factory with an oil finish. If you desire to stain or paint the piece, use only oil based stains or primers. Practice on a part of the unit that will be hidden to make sure the stain or paint dries properly and dries to the desired color. The stains that seem to have the most success are found in brands of Danish Oil. Minwax Wood-SheenTM Danish Oil stain and Bartley R. gel stains have been successful for our customers. Consult with your local unfinished furniture store for other recommendations. Once an item is stained or painted, it can no longer be returned to us for exchange or refund.

Q – Are accessories such as casters, shelves, backsplashes, knife racks, etc. available for purchase directly from the factory.

A – We make certain accessories available through your local retailer, since we do not sell directly to the public. Ask your dealer or contact our Customer Service Department for specific accessory availability.

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CARE & CLEANING

Q – Should I use my table top for cutting and chopping?

A – Most of our customers do not since cuts and scratches somewhat mar the beauty of the top. Most people use a cutting board or chopping block placed on the top. However, the top is made for chopping and cutting, and scratches can be removed by sanding with high grit sandpaper.

Q – Can I prepare raw food on my unit top or cutting board, or should I use a plastic cutting board for food safety?

A– Recent studies at the University of Wisconsin-Madison, Food Research Institute, prove that wood is safer for food preparation than poly or glass. Extensive tests show that all sorts of bacterium, including salmonella, disappear quickly on wood, whereas the same bacterium continue to live and thrive on plastic. These tests confirm that the idea of plastic being more hygienic than wood is a perception that is flat wrong and is due mostly to advertising. Nonetheless, always clean your wooden cutting board surface with soapy water, making sure to remove any food particles. Dry immediately!!

Do not soak or put cutting boards in the dishwasher!

For more information on whether wood is safe for food preparation click here.(link will cause a pop-up window)

“Catskill’s Original Butcher Block Oil” is a mixture of FDA approved ingredients of which the base is highly refined linseed oil with drying agents added. These additions as well as the refined oil allow for better penetration of the wood and faster drying. The linseed oil actually hardens within the wood for lasting protection.

Mineral Oil enhances the color of the wood and gives short-term protection. However, mineral oil imparts little lasting protection to your table. Also, be careful in selecting mineral oil to choose a non-toxic of FDA approved mineral oil. This is found at your drugstore or supermarket.

Boiled Linseed Oil is not recommended, since it is not highly refined and often leaves a tacky surface.

Vegetable Oil – This is as satisfactory to use as mineral oil and is normally readily available. However, as mineral oil, provides only nominal protection for your table.

If you use Catskill’s Original Butcher Block Oil or other linseed oil based products, the old adage of once a week for the first month and once a month for the first year would be proper. After this point your table will have developed a rich golden glow. From our experience we have found that once a month for the first few months is sufficient. After this point the wood is totally sealed and needs little further protection. Write the factory for extra Fair Oil coupons. Be sure to oil all wooden parts.

CAUTION: Rags with linseed oil are extremely flammable and can self ignite – washing rags dose not eliminate this danger – Place rags in water and place outside the house until final disposal.

Q – How do you remove a ding, dig or scratch from the top?

A – For small scratches or dings the easiest way is to take a little water and put it on the ding or scratch. Wait a few minutes, then take a metal cap such as a bottle cap and place it over the water. Take your iron, on cotton setting (high), and place the tip on the metal cap. This will boil the water in the wood and rise the grain. Remove cap, let dry, and lightly sand with fine grit paper with the grain to remove raised grain and scratches. For deep scratches you may have to repeat process. For deep dents drive a series of ¼ deep holes with a needle into dent to allow the water to penetrate deeper. You can also iron over a damp cloth. Deep holes or scratches, not on the top, may be filled with colored wax sticks available at any hardware or paint store. Deep holes in top can be patched with a resin or plastic colored stick which is melted into the hole, scraped flat with a single edge razor blade and sanded with the grain. Darker colored sticks blend in better then very light colors. These darker colors look like mineral streaks.
Q. – I have small end checks or slight separations of the joints along the edge of the top. How can I correct this?

A. – This is caused by excessive loss of moisture due to the dry atmosphere, etc. Use an equal mixture of mineral oil and melted paraffin on area, making sure paraffin fills the small cracks. Follow package instructions when melting paraffin – use a double boiler or microwave, as paraffin is flammable! You can also use beeswax.

Q. – How do I clean my butcher-block top? Remove dough? Wax? Stains? Cigarette burns? Ink spots?

A. – Most spills are easily wiped clean with damp sponge or cloth. Never soak or let water stand on your table for long periods of time as water effects the grain and even though the glue is water-resistant, it is not waterproof. Be sure to clean your top well with a mild detergent, rinsing it well with a damp sponge and toweling dry before applying new oil.
To remove dough, use a little salt on a sponge and rube with the grain or try using a plastic ice scrapper.
To remove wax and gum, make it brittle with an ice pack. When the deposit hardens, use your fingernail or ice scrapper to remove.
Your top shouldn’t stain very easily, but to remove glass rings or white spots, use extra fine sand paper or No. 00 steel wool moistened with linseed oil and sand with the grain. Rings should come out when reoiled.
Burns should be sanded out if possible, again, sanding with the grain. Deep burns should be scrapped out with a sharp rounded edge blade, then feather sand and reoil.
Grease spots are removed using a little bit of mineral spirits – use sparingly! After application with a small brush, soak up excess with clean cloth, sand lightly or put salt over area treated to absorb any residue. Then take a little water, mild detergent and clean area.

WARNING – Whatever the stain, try sanding with (100+ grit, fine grit) the grain first since your top is tough and chances are the stain doesn’t go very deep because of the close grain. If you must resort to cleaners, follow the directions on the container, be careful, use sparingly on the top and make sure all residue is sanded and washed clean before placing food on top!! Keep these cleaners out of the reach of children! DO NOT USE SOLVENTS, PAINT THINNERS, OR BLEACH!!

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MISCELLANEOUS

Q. – How about suggestions? Can I send you some?

A. – Please do! We have made many changes and improvements due to customer suggestions. We continue to design and produce products based on the helpful suggestions of our customers. If you have a suggestion on how to make instructions easier or perhaps just an idea for a cart, drop us a line. All emails, letters, phone calls or notes on a napkin become the property of Catskill Craftsmen, Inc. upon submission.

Q. – If I send back your Replacement Parts Request Form, will my name/address/telephone number be sold or given to any other company?

A. – No. We keep these in the event we need to get in touch with you with product information, new accessories, etc.

Q. – Can I have a catalog of your products and price sheet? Will you sell to me directly?

A. – Retail dealers/catalog houses can request a catalog/price sheet. We do not sell directly to the general public, except Fair Oil and accessory prices not carried by your retailer. We can direct you to your nearest dealer that carries the entire line.

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